Useful Build Pictures

Both the TerminatorX & AC ECUs are on the firewall behind the gauge cluster.

You must replace the old analog turn signal box for the later model solid state to go to 12V.

In Florida we need beefy radiators. Cut the old radiator mounts away and bolted the engine radiator and AC condenser straight to the valence.

Trimmed the bolts after the picture. Notice still SUA. Only modification was to notch the pumpkin brace.

I wanted the dual exhaust to dump in the rear. Had to stack the mufflers on their sides.

Retained the stock ebrake lever for authenticity. Although it still controls a transfer case ebrake. This one is disk caliper off the NP205. Transfer case has modified shift rails that allow independent use of the front and rear drive axles.

We tried two different LS mounts until we gave up and bought the Novak. So easy and adjustable. Should have done it the first time.

The stock M715 can be a hot MF & prone to floor pan rot. We installed bedliner coating in the entire cab and up the back cab wall. Then applied insulated roofing over the bedliner coating in the cab. Thus terminates the dreaded FSJ floor rot. May it not rest in peace.

This stuff is a self-adhering waterproofing material featuring a reflective aluminum surface. Multiple laminations of special aluminum foil, high-density polymer films and a thick layer of rubberized asphalt waterproofing compound. Easily installed by removing the release paper and pressing the aluminum membrane into place. Cut to fit using scissors or razor knife. Lightweight, stretches to allow for building movement, won't crack or dry out, impervious to fungus, algae or bacteria. Uses: dormer and porch roofs, small commercial, farm buildings, mobile homes, patch asphalt roofs, repair metal surfaces. Built for low slope application requiring a minimum 1/2" Per foot slope. Creates a two-piece roof with a 10 year limited warranty. Thickness: 45 mm.

Installed footwell vents from a Grand Wagoneer and then used aircraft grade pull cables to the dash. These cables ensure rust, etc won't cause them to stop working like the stock Heater, defrost cables. Stainless Steel, Teflon sleeved, Aluminum handle.

Added a 1980 Grand Wagoneer hood bar for rigidity. This is required at highway speeds to prevent the hood from cracking at the center crease.

Had a local convertible top maker make a reproduction with modern fabrics. He used the original canvas military top as a template. We customized the top and added a roll up back window. Used the same material as the top to make a cab wall insulation plate to cover the aluminum asphalt sheeting.

Vintage Wiring of Maine makes a COMPLETE body harness that makes 24v -> 12v conversion easy if your stock harness is toast. Use the stock harness to run all your lights and you will still retain the 3-toggle switch on the dash AND the convoy lights. Cool! All you need to do is replace all the bulbs with 12v bulbs. There is a 24v -> 12v bulb conversion chart in the documents section. You can stick with incandescent for use the cross referenced new number to look up LEDs. Use the Holly TerminatorX harness for the engine. In fact I still have the ability to run the truck with all lights off, including brake lights, or just convoy lights as it did in the military.

Reproduction rino grill sprayed trim color. Turned out very nice. Information about the guy that makes these for sale is on the main page under Contacts.

One of my regrets on this build. I should have coughed up the money for the aluminum AC firewall manifold. Not from a functionality perspective. Just for the looks. But hey this ain't a show truck.